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Guests’ experiences – an adventure across the Atlantic

This year we have four boats sailing across the great and mighty Atlantic Ocean, for the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers event. By satellite phone we received updates from our guest Carina on board Jolie as well as guests Isabella and Peter on boardVi La Ut.

Name: Carina, Isabella and Peter | Sailing trip: Across the Atlantic 2021

The starting shot – day 1

Jolie – Lagoon 52

We started ARC in Las Palmas at 12:30 am local time. During the 8-12 pm watch, a rescue vessel was sighted with flashing lights, searching the area with strong searchlights. Suddenly it was coming towards us at high speed, passing just next to our port side with a small rowboat/rubber boat in tow, most likely a migrant boat.

Technical problems and swimming – day 2

Jolie – Lagoon 52

When setting up the gennaker, we had to do a MOB manoeuvre to save our lifeline that was knocked down by a flapping sheet line. A smooth turn and recovery with the boat hook, and the lifeline was placed on the railings. The 230-volt electricity on board was lost after fuses burned due to a short circuit. When the fuse melted, our buddy boat “Anna Isabella” was contacted via VHF radio. They sent their rubber boat with Olof who is a competent electrician. We also have incredibly competent fellow sailors on board our boat, but it was good to get help and a second opinion because we are so dependent on the electricity and also did not have the right equipment on board. When we had to float in one place for a good while, we all went overboard for a lovely swim in the blue waters of the Atlantic Ocean. ARC can be really fun!

Mahi-mahi and dolphins – day 3

Jolie – Lagoon 52

In the morning Helena sighted a whale on the starboard side and asked for the binoculars, but the whale turned out to be a smaller rubber boat – most likely a migrant boat equipped for a whole family with babies in nappies. A tragic event that has affected the mood on board. We salvaged the boat, punctured it and cut it down, then stowed all the plastic in our rubber dinghy so it doesn't end up in the sea. The incident was reported by our captain Otto. We hope the passengers have been saved somehow!

A bite! x3 Three large mahi-mahi were pulled up within half an hour, Helena managed to get the big heavy fish up and filleted them with lightning speed like it’s the most natural thing in the world. That's impressive!

Lots of dolphins lined up next to the “Jolie” and it was so joyful as they swam in groups of ten right next to the hull. Great moments to remember! Then we had a safety briefing on board regarding water ingress on the starboard engine. We went through how to abandon ship into the life rafts, who is responsible for bringing the grab bags and the EPIRB, and who goes on which life raft.

Thomas drops his salt water soap overboard! The only one on board, by the way. Then the scouring brush was dropped into the water and we also failed to save it despite a quick MOB manoeuvre.

The night watch saw a fantastic “sea fire” or marine bioluminescence, as phosphorised organisms were stirred up in our wake by a group of dolphins who were following “Jolie”.

Amazing speed – day 4

Jolie – Lagoon 52

The gennaker was hoisted and we logged between 11 and 13 knots, feeling like we were flying forward across the Atlantic. We sailed so fast that it howled in the rig and propeller. A lovely sound of speed even though I couldn't sleep.
For lunch there was the freshly caught mahi-mahi with mashed potatoes and white wine sauce. Yum!
Johanna baked banana cake for an afternoon snack, delicious! There is no distress among the crew aboard the “Jolie”. In 24 hours we have completed 175 nautical miles. A new record!

Sunset sailing – day 5

Jolie – Lagoon 52

Mårten and PA make breakfast and report on the night's change of course, when we lost our bearings for a long time because the autopilot stopped working. The motors don’t start, we suspect low battery as the display is dead. Mårten and Peter find the fault and get the engines running again. A converter was disconnected when we unplugged the onshore power in Las Palmas. Later in the night the generator stopped working with an unknown error code.

Restarting it worked! 2215 nautical miles left to Saint Lucia. We are currently in position 20 out of about 178 starting boats without counting handicapping. Weather forecast shows a wind speed of 5-7 m/s which hopefully increases to 10 m/s.

Shower day! Great to have fresher smells on board. We need to save water, so make the most of it and enjoy!
Peter spotted a killer whale or another kind of whale at the stern and clearly heard it blow as it rose up alongside the boat. Amazing magical sunset!

Studying and safety exercises – day 6

Jolie – Lagoon 52

Wonderful sunrise, good morning ARC!
At 10 am we are located across from the Cape Verde Islands on the port side.
While on watch we study running manoeuvres in the Swedish Cruising Association's book on good seamanship. Otto teaches us the “Australian quick bowline” – a quick variation of a bowline knot that’s really impressive!

Today's safety exercise: MOB everyone up on deck! All sails down, turn and salvage the ball fender/bucket on the starboard side. The wind increases and we hoist the gennaker again!
Fresh fruits and vegetables are starting to rot now, so we have to start using the fridge/freezer goods.

Dolphins and a difficult night – day 5

Vi La Ut – Lagoon 50

Dolphins jump up out of the water, especially at night. On Tuesday night, the gennaker’s top halyard came off and the sail had to be salvaged from the water. After daylight returned, the skipper Hampus put in a new halyard and we sailed on with full rigging.

During the night, the autopilot suddenly stopped working but the skipper and first mate resolved the situation with calm and confidence. Everyone on board is happy, albeit some have a slight cold. No scandals on board apart from when a pair of underwear got stuck in a pulley for the gennaker and subsequently had to be sacrificed to Poseidon.

We’re sailing at a steady speed of 16 knots and the food still tastes great.

On course to Saint Lucia – day 8

Vi La Ut – Lagoon 50

We have now set course more or less directly towards St. Lucia. A new weather system has arrived and we have got through our first squalls. The waves are about 8 m and sitting on the bridge requires 110% focus. The slightest error and you risk an unintended gybe.

Sleeping on board is a big challenge nowadays, imagine a tumble dryer and you are close to our reality. We have torn down our sails to withstand the gusts of 18-20 m/s.

At night, the sky is starry and we learn to recognise new stars. The flying fish skim between the peaks of the waves in a fascinating way. What really amazes us are all the birds that stubbornly fly around here. We wonder where they sleep and how.

The sea is the only thing we see around us and sometimes dolphins come and say hello. It was a magical sight when the marine bioluminescence shone around the dolphins at night. They looked like shining torpedoes in the water.

About 1900 nautical miles left to sail for ARC and right now we expect another 10 days to go before we reach land on St. Lucia. Today we celebrate the first day of Advent on board with marshmallow Santas, gingerbread and non-alcoholic mulled wine.

A well-oiled machine – day 11

Vi La Ut – Lagoon 50

Here on board Vi La Ut we’re keeping up with the twists and turns. Both day and night we have bumpy seas and we’re doing around 7-9 knots.

We still eat well and most of us are on our feet for our watch shifts, and when someone needs extra rest we cover each other’s shifts.

The skipper and first mate take turns to be on standby in the saloon and now only need to intervene periodically. The watch teams are now a well-oiled machine and we keep things shipshape, you might say.

We deal with squall after squall. At night we steer with autopilot, staring at the instruments and constantly calibrating our course as the waves toss us from port to starboard. Pressing buttons while leaning forward causes some backache but also a good laugh.

Laughter, good food & flying fish – day 13

Vi La Ut – Lagoon 50

This entry was written during the first sleepless night after a week of constant stiff gales and thumping in the hulls.

No major incidents or injuries on board, there’s still high spirits and lots of laughter. Culinary highlights (e.g. sashimi made of freshly caught dorado) are mixed with cooking experiments inflicted on an involuntary passenger in the form of flying fish.

The other day, one of the crew had an unexpected visitor when he was about to get some air and a flying fish jumped up and ended up in their bed, luckily there were spare sheets on hand.

All of us on board manoeuvre the boat skillfully and methodically so that the journey is a real pleasure.

Whale watching – day 14

Vi La Ut – Lagoon 50

An amazing Saturday morning on board, the scent of freshly brewed coffee seeping into every berth. Freshly cooked porridge simmers on the stove. A must have for everyone on board. Most wake up refreshed and well rested, while some take a lie in if the watch allow it.

After a few hours, we suddenly see the first whale. At least 6-7 m long. It circles around the boat and disappears. After a little while it comes back with a friend and they both entertain us for just over an hour. One of them rolls over right next to the boat and disappears under us. What amazing animals!

Soon it will be lunch. Today it will be fish stew made of yesterday's three dorados. There’s a professional cook in our midst and a star in the Michelin guide is not far away. Suddenly our fishing rod rattles, a wild fight ensues, and after a while we haul in a sailfish just over 1.5 m long.

Back to business, we are giving it everything we can and believe we will reach solid ground on Thursday. The sun is shining and the wind is blowing at about 10 m/s.

Not far now – day 15

Vi La Ut – Lagoon 50

Here on Vi La Ut, we alternate between meals of sailfish, freshly baked bread and tying diamond knots, in addition to sailing the boat of course.

We have a singing competition, a backgammon tournament and lots of book-reading – it’s a relaxed atmosphere on the rocking boat. Today there was also mulled wine and Santa hats for the whole crew, on the occasion of the second Sunday in Advent.

Yesterday we saw whales circling around the boat which stayed for about an hour, however the dolphins have been noticeable in their absence in recent days.

The watch teams continue to do a very good job.

Not far now – day 18

Vi La Ut – Lagoon 50

Closer to the end and heading straight to the finish, about 400 nautical miles remain. After a few bad nights with many long squalls, we are now back at a calmer pace.

We catch a lot of fish and have a feast. We have several games and books on the go, so as yet nobody has been bored. Nor do we have anything to argue about, quite the opposite. The atmosphere on board continues to be good even though the pulley for the gennaker’s halyard gave up recently and our biggest sail now has to rest until we have the opportunity to check the rig, which will be when we arrive at Rodney Bay.

Lull and longing for land – day 19

Vi La Ut – Lagoon 50

Even closer to the finish line and less than 200 nautical miles to St. Lucia, we plough ahead at about 5 knots.

After not having had any other boat in sight for several days, we now manage to pick up two at really close range, in the middle of the night. We talk to one for a little while on Channel 72, an American boat.

A few smaller dolphins are visible at the bow and some kind of bladderwrack has begun to appear near the surface of the water. We’ve started to dip into our backup food and it is more difficult to vary the menu this near the end.

Everyone is healthy and functioning, albeit somewhat impatient in the calm weather.

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